I can hardly breathe, and my knees are wobbly as I climb the ladder from the sea onto the catamaran’s main deck. “You’re never going to believe this!” I say, trying to catch my breath after my exciting snorkeling expedition. “Just as soon as I jumped in, there he was – a giant Barracuda — lurking in the dark shade of the boat just an arm’s length away. And I swear – he was smiling at me!”

But my fellow snorkelers just laugh, unconcerned about the grinning Barracuda. After all, this was exactly what the travel brochures promised: “In the British Virgin Islands (BVI), even the fish are glad to see you.”

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